From Villa Giulia, ride or walk west to the ancient via Flarninia; turn south on it and you'll be entering Rome as travellers have traditionally for centuries, through the grand gate called the Porta del Popolo, at piazza del Popolo. From the museum it is a pleasant walk (or, perhaps better for scheduling your time, taxi ride) to Villa Giulia at the northwest corner of the park, which actually is a 16th century suburban villa, built after a design by Michelangelo and Vignola for Pope Julius II. One such arrival was that of Queen Christina of Sweden, who converted to Catholicism and came to Rome in 1655, an occasion for which Bernini decorated the inside of the great arch and Pope Alexander VII composed the arch's inscription: Felia faustoque ingressui. Begin one of your days in Rome early, at the Museo Borghese in the small palace of the Villa Borghese (not a villa but a large park built for Cardinal Scipione Borghese, the pleasure loving nephew of Pope Paul V, on the Pincio Hill). Today the Villa Borghese, just north of the Spanish Steps/via Veneto area, is one of the greenest and most relaxing public places in Rome, a favorite spot for a picnic, a trip with the children to the zoo, or a promenade to its piazzale Napoleone I on the west side of the Pincio for a traditional view of Rome over piazza del Popolo.





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